Lonely Planet can sometimes be an optimistic bunch! For I suppose it’s best for bringing tourism to a location, although I’m sorry that I can’t necessarily be as optimistic when it comes to Dakar, Senegal!
For the Senegalese capital boasts some of the best West African arts and culture . . . color, dress, and music, and much more. The Muslim dominated culture dresses very elegantly, simply, and colorfully, and the men look oh so cool in long robes, sunglasses, and “hats”. The paintings, fabrics, and other various arts are abundant and the artists sell them hard in the streets. The Orange mobile company monopolizes the market and seems to have thousands of boys working for them, as there are several boys selling the credit scratch-off cards on every street corner. It’s a tough, selling society with endless competition, thereby making one sell harder and faster than his brother. Everything is for sale on the streets, one never even has to enter inside a store. Though for the unsuspecting visitor to center city Dakar, the in-your-face selling culture can quickly smother and turn one off to the city. I, for one, fell victim and found myself strongly disliking the city and looking to exit as quickly as possible!
Fortunately, I found solace and friendship when traveling to the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage island of Gorée where I met Leia. A native to Dakar, though living abroad now for many years, Leia guided me in the ways of Dakar and the key tactic of avoiding eye contact with the sellers. She also informed me that the street I had spending much time on was the hardest of all streets and one she never steps foot on! It began to make sense why one of the men I had met days before kept saying how he was impressed by my courage in being there . . . doh! Meanwhile, Leia became a close friend and introduced me to other great people on Gorée and on the following day, the island of N’Gor.
Gorée, only a short ferry ride away, is a wonderfully pleasant change from Dakar. Devoid of the strong selling culture (that the Senegalese are known for throughout all of Africa), one can walk freely, enjoying the vibrant island architecture and fine-art painting-lined sidewalks. Edu, an elder Gorée native and painter, and friend of Leia, lives in one of the greatest spots on the island with a small balcony overlooking the endless sea. It was a very nice day spent with new friends, eating island specialties, sipping espresso, listening to music, and watching the local boys play futbol in the sand.
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N’Gor was much of the same island relaxation where we made other new friends… this day a kind Dane man who owned a surf camp on a wonderful white stone property where Leia and I were invited for a great candlelit dinner with he and his American camper. Following, the short boat ride back to the mainland was intriguing in the darkness, although the rat-attack as I sat on the rocks to put my sneakers back on wasn’t quite as pleasant, ha! A good friend sees the rats and quickly, but calmly, spurts “I have to go” and walks away down the beach without uttering a word as to the reason. Thanks Leia, I’ve got this one! ; P
View from N
And well . . . I could go on for some time, but without photos it won’t impress quite the same. What else? I switched accommodations a second time, to a quaint hotel with a great historic French courtyard with palms where I kicked ass in WWIII against the cockroaches. I found a new private beach where I relaxed one afternoon with the locals and a nice French woman, as they played acoustic guitars and sang, the waves crashed in, and the youths took to athletic training in late-day. And another day, I relaxed by the pool at the 5-star Pullman hotel and resort. So I suppose all in all, time spent outside the center city was time well spent!
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And in the end, after understanding this crazy city, I chalked it up to a wonderful experience, even if I’m not necessarily in a rush to head back. Dakar was actually the first foreign city I’ve traveled to in recent years and didn’t photograph. Not necessarily as much of a safety issue as much as I simply didn’t desire the further attention it would draw . . . I didn’t have such energy or patience . . . I’d opt for the Maasai flies any day! 
